The Copper Mesh for Slugs (flat-wire 2.0)

Its superior effectiveness rests on a breakthrough innovation: we have replaced the standard round wire with an exclusive mesh. Here are the 3 pillars that set the Springday netting radically apart from the cheap imitations:

1. The “Twisted Flat Wire” Technology: The Double-Whammy Effect

This is the major difference. Competing nets use a round wire that is smooth and slippery. Ours uses a flat ribbon that is then twisted during the knitting process. This changes everything on two counts:

• Multiplied Electric Shock (x3 to x5): It comes down to physics. A round wire offers only a tiny (tangential) point of contact. Our flat wire offers a broad contact face. The surface area of the slug touching the metal is multiplied by 3 to 5. As the electrochemical reaction is proportional to the contact area, the repellent effect is amplified tenfold.
• Mechanical Barrier (Sharp Edges): The round wire is “comfortable” for the slug as it glides over it. Our twisted flat wire exposes thousands of sharp, protruding edges. The slug suffers a twofold assault: an intense electric shock + a hostile, abrasive texture that is very difficult to climb.

2. Seal and Height: The Impassable Wall

The geometry of the netting was designed to give slugs no chance, neither from below nor from above.

• Ground-sealed (Absolute Suppleness): Round-wire nets are often too rigid: they “bridge” over stones and leave tunnels open. Our mesh behaves like a heavy fabric that hugs the micro-contours of the ground. It leaves no gap whatsoever.
• The Critical Height (15 to 20 cm): Most competitors stop at 10–12 cm, which sometimes proves insufficient against the most stubborn slugs. With 15 cm (extendable to 20 cm), the slug has to climb up and back down 30 to 40 cm over an abrasive surface that delivers electrical jolts.

3. The Science of the Material: Pure Copper (>99%)

Beware of visual imitations. Many “copper-coloured” nets are in fact alloys (brass/zinc). Our netting is certified Pure Copper (>99%). This is vital, because the repulsion is electrochemical (a galvanic reaction on contact with the mucus). Only pure copper guarantees the conductivity needed to generate the “micro-current” that forces the slug to turn back.

How do you protect a single isolated seedling? Where standard nets (rigid and loose) remain “sieves” for small slugs, the Springday netting changes the game thanks to its suppleness: you can scrunch it up (roll it over on itself) around the seedling to create a dense copper core. The mesh layers overlap to form an opaque, abundant barrier. When done properly, even micro-slugs cannot get through.

This is a common question. Adhesive tape (copper tape) seems practical and cheaper (and offers the slug a large copper contact surface), but it has three major flaws that make it barely usable in practice over the medium term:

• Peeling off: With rain and the moisture of the wood, the glue always ends up giving way. The tape peels off, creating bridges for the slugs.
• Insufficient height: Tapes are often 3 to 5 cm wide. That is not enough to stop a large slug (even if you can recreate that height by sticking several strips one above the other). Our netting is 15 cm high.
• Flatness: The tape requires a smooth, clean surface. It is impossible to apply it to soil, uneven stone or old wood, unlike the netting, which can be installed anywhere with the right methods.

Verdict: Tape is a temporary fix for a plastic flowerpot. Netting is durable protection for a vegetable garden.

Absolutely. People often talk about “slug netting”, but it is a formidable barrier against shelled snails too. In reality, the netting is often even more effective on snails for two reasons:

1. The Shell: The weight of their shell makes climbing a supple vertical wall (such as the netting) far more perilous for them than for a slug.
2. The Sensitivity: Tests show that snails are very reactive to contact with copper and turn back almost systematically.

So yes: whether you are overrun by small grey slugs or large garden snails, the protection is total.

It is a bold claim, but let us compare the facts. If you are looking for a natural solution (chemical-free), you have the choice between:

• Eggshells / Ash: Free, but useless from the very first dew (the moment when slugs come out!).
• Nematodes: Effective but expensive, awkward to store (fridge) and to renew often.
• The Springday Copper Netting: It combines the durability of metal (lasts for years) with consistent effectiveness around the clock, even in the rain. It is currently the only impassable physical barrier that requires no consumables and no daily upkeep.

So yes, for peace of mind, it is the number one choice.

This is objection number 1, and the answer is crucial: The netting serves to stop NEW slugs getting in. For the ones that are already there, there is a foolproof method.

1. The “Wolf in the Sheepfold” syndrome

Imagine building a perfect fence around your sheep (your lettuces), but locking the wolf (the slug) inside with them… The carnage would carry on! Slugs can stay dormant in the soil down to 10 cm deep. If you lay the netting and wait with your arms folded, they will come out at night to feed.

2. The solution: The “Zero Zone” protocol

For the system to work 100%, you need to follow these 3 simple steps during installation:

1. Fence off your area airtight with the netting.
2. The Great Harvest: During the 3 to 5 nights following installation (especially after rain or watering), go out with a head torch and remove every slug present inside. You can also use traps (boards, roof tiles) to flush them out during the day.
3. Royal Peace: Once the area is “cleaned”, you are sorted for the whole season and even the following years, because no new slug will be able to get in to lay eggs!

3. Myth: “They will just dig their way underneath”

Let us be clear: a slug is not a mole. Although they know how to bury themselves to shelter from cold or heat, they have neither the physical ability nor the instinct to dig “bypass tunnels” beneath a barrier. They look for the easiest route. What is more, thanks to the suppleness of our flat wire, the netting presses flat against the ground (you can even bury it 2 cm deep if you want paranoid security). Faced with a copper wall that is impassable at the surface and sealed at the ground, they will simply turn around to go and feed elsewhere.

Whatever you do, do not wait until your lettuces have been eaten! The ideal is to install the netting as a preventive measure, as soon as you prepare your growing area or just after sowing.

• In Winter/Autumn: You can put it down right now to secure an area. Copper stands up perfectly to frost and bad weather.
• In Spring: This is the critical moment. Lay it before the slugs come out of hibernation to create an immediate “no-go zone”.

Durability Tip: Once laid, the netting stays in place and protects your vegetable garden 365 days a year. The only minor maintenance: at the start of each spring, take a look at the oxidation. If the netting is very green (verdigris), a quick wipe with diluted white vinegar will restore its maximum conductivity for the new season. That is all!

This is an excellent question, because mulch is often a slug nest. The netting is 100% compatible with mulch, provided you observe one strict installation rule.

1. The Golden Rule: Never ON the mulch!

To be effective, the netting must be in direct, airtight contact with the soil. If you simply lay it on straw or dead leaves, the slugs will slip underneath as if through a tunnel. The method: Scrape back the mulch along the perimeter of your area to create a 5 cm wide strip of bare soil. Install the netting on this strip of soil. You can then push the mulch back up against the netting (inside and out), but the base of the netting must touch the ground.

2. The Exfiltration (The Moment of Truth)

As explained above, you must not lock the slugs in with your vegetables. Since the mulch serves them as a hiding place, the ideal is to temporarily remove the mulch inside the fenced area at the time of installation. This will let you spot and extract all the resident slugs far more easily during your night-time hunts (over the 2–3 days following installation).

3. Re-mulching safely

Once you are certain the “Zero Zone” is clean (not a single slug left inside), you can put your mulch back. Word of caution: Check that the mulch you add (especially if it comes from another part of the garden) does not itself contain slugs or eggs! Preferably use dry or inspected straw.

The gardener’s dread is to receive a net and then have to rush off to the DIY store to work out how to keep it up. With this kit, you have nothing extra to buy.

1. The included “Fixing Kit”

I have tested dozens of methods (nails, staples, bits of wood…). The only one that guarantees perfect tension and lasting hold is the “Stake + Cable Tie” duo. That is why every net is supplied with 20 bamboo stakes and 20 cable ties (Rilsan type).

2. The “Zero Gap” method

It is child’s play, but ruthlessly effective:

• Drive the supplied stakes in at regular intervals.
• Fix the netting to the stake with the cable tie.
• Pull it tight. This technique lets you tension the netting to perfection (essential so that slugs cannot get over the top by folding the netting) and press it flat against the ground.

3. Worried about getting it wrong? (Step-by-step video included)

Installation is simple, but to make you 100% sure of your work, I have filmed a detailed demonstration video. I show you, step by step, how I lay the netting in my own vegetable garden so it is quick and foolproof. This video (along with a complete guide in the ebook) is sent to you immediately with your order.

Regarding installation on a raised bed: if you can (wooden bed), the best thing is to staple or nail the netting directly around the edge of the bed using large staples or nails. Leave the top overhanging by, say, 3 cm, and bend it slightly outwards so that it creates a sort of “overhang” that even the most stubborn slugs cannot get past.

Diagram: creating the protective overhang on the edge

If your vegetable garden is bordered by low stone walls, breeze blocks, bricks or concrete, you obviously cannot use staples. No need to panic — the netting adapts perfectly to these materials thanks to its suppleness. Here are the 3 tried-and-tested methods for a durable fixing onto hard supports.

1. The “Gluing” method (The most attractive)

This is the cleanest solution for a perfect seal on a smooth or rendered edge.

• The tool: Use a cartridge of exterior grab adhesive (the outdoor “No More Nails” type, polyurethane or MS polymer), available in any DIY store.
• Application: Apply a continuous bead of adhesive onto your wall (around 5 cm above the ground or on the edge). Press the lower strip of the netting into the adhesive. Leave it to dry.
• The advantage: It is permanent, and no gap remains between the wall and the netting.

2. The “Weighting” method (No tools)

If you have low walls with a fairly wide, flat top.

• Application: Lay the netting flat on top of the wall, letting it overhang outwards.
• Holding it down: Simply place flat stones, decorative bricks or heavy pebbles on top of the netting, all the way along the perimeter.
• The advantage: It is 100% removable and leaves no trace of glue on your stones.

3. The “Reversed Stakes” trick (If you have soil)

If you do not want to touch your wall, use the soil inside the bed.

• Application: Drive the (supplied) stakes directly into the soil, far enough from your low stone wall.
• Tension: Fix the netting onto these stakes. The netting will then press against the wall from the inside.
• Caution: Make sure the netting overhangs well in height (10–15 cm above the soil level) so that slugs cannot climb the wall and tip straight into the vegetable garden.

How do you install the netting on a flowerpot or window box?

Pots and window boxes are easy targets for slugs that climb up the sides at night. The knitted netting is ideal because its supple structure naturally hugs curved shapes (round or square).

Here are 4 methods to secure your pots:

1. The “Belt” method (The simplest)

Ideal for classic round pots in terracotta or plastic. The aim is to create a perimeter barrier around the pot.

• Application: Cut a strip of netting matching the circumference of the pot (+5 cm for the overlap). Wrap it around the pot at mid-height.
• Fixing: Simply use a piece of string, a discreet wire or a large elastic band to keep the bottom of the netting pressed against the side.
• The trick: Once fixed, fold the top of the netting slightly outwards to form a “skirt” that will stop the slug getting over the top.

2. The “Gluing” method (For an invisible finish)

This is the most attractive solution for rectangular window boxes or large solid pots if you do not want any visible string.

• The tool: Use an exterior grab adhesive (the “No More Nails” type, silicone or polyurethane) or a powerful “Outdoor Special” double-sided tape.
• Application: Apply a bead of adhesive under the rim of the pot. Press the strip of netting into it and leave to dry.
• Result: A permanent, clean fixing, with no gap at all between the pot and the copper.

3. The “Dense Collar” technique (Protecting the base)

If you do not want to fix anything onto the pot itself (or if the pot is too awkward to wrap), protect the plant’s stem directly.

• Application: Cut a piece of netting, form a circle and lay it on the soil around the base of the plant.
• The secret: Do not try to tension it! On the contrary, scrunch it up slightly to create a dense, voluminous collar at the base of the plant. This creates a physical barrier in the heart of the pot.

4. The “Inner Stakes” method (For large planters)

If your pot is very large (an orangery tub or a raised standing planter with accessible soil, say).

• Application: Drive the (supplied) bamboo stakes directly into the soil, along the inner edge of the pot.
• Tension: Fix the netting onto these stakes so that it presses against the inner wall of the planter.
• Important: Leave the netting overhanging by 5 to 10 cm above the rim of the pot. The slug will climb the outer wall but will hit the copper wall when it reaches the top.

Is the copper in the netting dangerous for my soil? (No — here are the figures)

This is a legitimate question, often born of confusion with “Bordeaux mixture” (a liquid treatment). But rest assured: scientifically, a physical barrier has nothing to do with a chemical treatment.

1. The Mathematical Proof: 2,000 years of margin!

The toxicity of copper for soil life (earthworms, mycorrhizae) is very real, but it depends on the dose.

• The danger threshold: Reference studies (INRAE, RHS) show that toxicity begins beyond 20 to 50 mg/kg for the most fragile soils.
• The reality of the netting: A solid barrier like this netting does not dissolve. Through micro-erosion it releases less than 0.05 mg/kg/year.

The verdict: At this infinitesimal rate, you would have to leave the netting in place for more than 2,000 years to begin reaching the first risk thresholds.

2. At this level, Copper is an ally, not an enemy

Far from always being a “poison”, copper is in fact an essential trace element for your plants. It plays a part in photosynthesis and in the synthesis of lignin (which strengthens plant tissues). The tiny amount released by the netting is not enough to fertilise, but it helps maintain a balanced mineral base with no risk of pollution whatsoever.

3. What to do if the netting turns green (Verdigris)?

With moisture, the copper oxidises and covers itself with a green patina (copper carbonate). This verdigris is insoluble (so it does not pollute), but it poses a technical issue: it electrically insulates the surface. The galvanic micro-reaction (the little “current” that repels the slug) can no longer happen properly if the metal is insulated by this layer.

The express clean-up: To restore maximum effectiveness, simply clean the oxidised netting with a cloth soaked in white vinegar diluted to 5% (or a bicarbonate of soda + lemon paste). Rinse, dry, and off you go for another 1 or 2 seasons! Pro tip: Bring your netting in to a dry spot over the winter to limit needless oxidation.

This is a major concern, because slug pellets (even some organic ones) can be toxic for our pets. With the Springday netting, the risk is ZERO.

• For your animals: Copper is a natural metal. Even if your dog sniffs it or licks it, it is in absolutely no danger. No chemistry, no poison.
• For hedgehogs: The netting does not injure them. Better still: by not poisoning the slugs (which are their food), you protect the health of the hedgehogs that come to feed in your garden. It is the “hedgehog-friendly” solution par excellence.

You are no doubt familiar with Hervé Coves’s famous talk on slug management (if not, it is available here). His philosophy is beautiful: do not kill the slugs. Why? Because they are the indispensable food for attracting predators (ground beetles, hedgehogs, frogs). If you eradicate the slugs, the predators will never come, and the imbalance will persist.

1. The problem with the Coves method (The 5-year “Desert”)

The theory is perfect, but the practice is painful. Hervé Coves warns of it himself: the return to natural balance (the mass arrival of predators) can take up to 5 years. The cruel question is: What do you eat during those 5 years? If you let nature take its course without protection, your lettuces and courgettes will be sacrificed on the altar of the ecosystem. This is where many gardeners lose heart and give up on permaculture.

2. The Netting: The tool that makes the transition possible

This is where the copper netting becomes strategic. It is the only solution that lets you reconcile production and ecosystem.

• Inside the netting (Sanctuary Zone): Your vegetables grow in safety. You secure your harvest and your morale.
• Outside the netting (Wild Zone): You let the slugs live their lives. They break down organic matter and feed the predators that gradually settle in.

3. Why do the other barriers fail?

For this strategy to work, you need absolute protection. Ash, sand or eggshells become useless at the first rain (the very moment when slugs come out!). The copper netting is impassable in all weathers. It affords you the luxury of patience. You can calmly wait for the natural balance to establish itself, without sacrificing your food self-sufficiency.

This is a question that does credit to those who ask it. Rest assured: absolutely not. On the contrary, you are going to help them rediscover their true role.

1. The slug is the stomach of the soil

You must never forget that the slug is above all a detritivore. Its job in nature is to digest dead matter, fungi and waste to create humus. Eating your living lettuces is an “accident” because it cannot find anything else, or because the lettuce is too tempting. By barring its access to the vegetable garden with the netting, you are not starving it: you are redirecting it to its natural workplace, elsewhere in the garden.

2. The “Win-Win” strategy: Surface composting

For peace to be complete, do not leave the soil bare around your fenced areas. Offer them what they really prefer:

• Surface Composting: Instead of taking your peelings and green waste to the tip or putting them in a closed bin, place them outside the protected area.
• The Result: The slugs will feast on this decomposing matter (which they often prefer to living vegetables) and turn your waste into free fertiliser for the rest of the garden.

Conclusion: Your lettuces are safe inside, and the slugs do useful work outside. Everyone wins.

It all started with my first permaculture vegetable garden… and my first crushing failures. Like many of you, I watched my lettuces vanish overnight. So I turned to gardening groups and forums to find help. The realisation was frightening: everyone had the same problem, but no one had a real solution.

1. The scourge of misinformation

I realised that the gardening world was saturated with false beliefs. We were sold a dream with eggshells, ash or coffee grounds. I tested everything. Nothing held up beyond 24 hours or after the first dew.

2. From Gardener to “Researcher”

Refusing to accept defeat (and the toxic pellets), I decided to change my approach. I stopped listening to “hearsay” and immersed myself in the scientific literature, the existing tests, the theories of holistic management (Coves), and stepped back from all of it to apply some common sense. Then I ran my own slug-barrier tests (a dozen of them, still visible on my YouTube channel).

3. The birth of the Springday Netting

It was after months of comparative tests in my own garden that I understood a specific tool was missing from the market. The adhesive tapes peeled off, the copper ring wires were too expensive, the existing nets were too low. After several tests of meshes and wires, this one proved to be the best: Pure Copper + Flat Wire + 15 cm Height. This is not a product born in a marketing office; it is a solution born in the mud of my own paths, to save my own vegetables. And today, yours.

The netting is your immediate shield (for your vegetables). But to win the war, you need an army to clear the rest of the plot. Total natural regulation only comes about when the predators are numerous enough to eat the slugs faster than they reproduce.

1. Forget the Hedgehog, make way for the “Alpha Predator”

We all think of the hedgehog. But the synthesis of 12 scientific studies shows that there is a far more formidable helper, used by organic farming professionals.

• Its power: Some species are 100 to 1,000 times more effective than the classic predators.
• Its territory: It works around the clock and clears your entire garden, not just the fenced areas.
• Its target: It specialises in hunting slugs and, above all, in destroying their eggs.

2. How do you attract it? (The 7-step Action Plan)

Attracting this “Alpha Predator” cannot be left to chance (there are pitfalls to avoid, such as attracting animals that eat one another!). I have condensed this academic knowledge into a practical guide: “The Action Plan – The Ultimate Regulation”. In it you will discover how to turn your garden into a natural fortress, step by step.

🎁 The Good Deal (Special Offer): This dossier (including, as a bonus, the complete Design of an anti-slug garden) is normally sold on its own. To encourage you to adopt the complete “Netting (Defence) + Predator (Attack)” strategy, I am offering it to you with an exclusive -30% discount (an immediate saving of £10 compared with the price at which I make it available each spring). The offer will appear just before you confirm your netting order. Do not miss it!

We play the card of total transparency. Here is what stands out from user feedback (positive as well as negative) after several seasons:

What they love (The strengths):

• The “Ready-to-Fit” Kit: This is the number one convenience cited. Customers hugely appreciate receiving the bamboo stakes and the fastenings included, which makes their lives easier and spares them the chore of the DIY store.
• A human, responsive customer service: Many gardeners are surprised (pleasantly!) by how available I am. If you have a complex garden layout, I am here to think through the best solution with you. The reviews often highlight this invaluable help with tricky cases.

Points to watch (and our video solutions):

• The case of the tiny slugs: Some users have noted that if the netting is very taut, the mesh opens up and can let the very smallest slugs (the babies) through.
  • The Expert Solution (For fences): I have developed the “Double Curtain” technique. As the netting is tubular (a sleeve), all you have to do is snip the top, then fold the second mesh panel down to the ground, twisting it over on itself. This creates a copper labyrinth on the ground that is impossible to cross, even for micro-slugs.
  • The Expert Solution (For isolated seedlings): The “Copper Core” technique. Do not tension the netting; instead, scrunch it up around the base to create a dense barrier.
• The Bonus: These technical manoeuvres can seem abstract in writing, which is why I have filmed specific videos (links in the free ebook) to show you these simple gestures that change everything.
• The difficulty of fitting (at first): A few older reviews mentioned a tricky installation. After analysis, this was often down to a poor installation technique.
  • The Solution: To fix this, I made a “Step-by-Step” installation video. It breaks down every gesture so you can lay the netting quickly and effortlessly. Since then, feedback confirms that installation has become child’s play.

In short: With the complete kit and the tutorial videos to master the right techniques (especially for the small slugs), the reviews confirm that it is the most reliable protection on the market.

Springday is not a fly-by-night shop. This project is the fruit of a serious entrepreneurial endeavour, validated by leading organisations in France.

A mark of seriousness and longevity: The slug netting project was audited and selected to join two excellence schemes that support the best young French companies:

• 🏆 Pépite Provence: The Student Hub for Innovation, Transfer and Entrepreneurship, which champions innovative projects emerging from higher education.
• 🚀 Entrepreneurs dans la ville: A prestigious incubation programme (in partnership with EM Lyon Business School) that selects and propels high-potential entrepreneurs.

What does this change for you? These accreditations are your guarantee. They attest that you are putting your trust in a structured, solid French company supported by experts. You are not just buying a product; you are backing a local innovation built to last.

This is a question that comes up often. In theory, yes. In practice, turning electrical wire or piping into an effective barrier is a costly and often disappointing technical challenge. Here is an objective analysis of the two most common DIY methods and their limits in the face of real-world conditions.

1. The “Passive Wires” method (Plain bare wires)

The idea is to wrap your beds with reclaimed copper wire.

The Height problem: A standard copper wire is only a few millimetres thick. Yet to stop a grey slug, you need a continuous vertical barrier at least 7 to 10 cm high. You would have to wind dozens of perfectly contiguous turns of wire to achieve that result!

2. The “Electrified Barrier” method (With a 9V battery)

This is the popular forum DIY hack: stretching two parallel wires connected to a battery to deliver an electric shock (like a cattle fence). Tempting as the idea is, it quickly becomes a maintenance nightmare outdoors:

• The Rain problem (Current leakage): Water is conductive. During a downpour, the running water creates micro-connections between the two wires. The battery then discharges continuously. You risk ending up with a flat battery (and zero protection) at the very moment when the slugs come out in the rain.
• The fatal “Plant Short-Circuit”: This is the major flaw. All it takes is a wet leaf or a twig falling across the two wires to create an instant short-circuit. The battery drains in a few hours. For this system to work, you have to inspect and clean the setup every single day.
• A “Taser” method vs. Natural Repulsion: The battery system delivers a violent shock. Our netting uses a natural micro-reaction (a few millivolts) generated by the slug itself. That is enough to deter it without violence, and above all without ever running out of battery.

In summary: Cobbling together your own barrier is doable, but it will cost you time, copper (expensive) and a great deal of maintenance hassle. The Springday netting is the optimised “industrial” version: the right height, the right contact surface, and zero electrical maintenance.

Absolutely not. The netting is the tool, but the 48-page ebook “Slugs: Strategic Mediation” is the method. Most sellers send you the product and leave you to fend for yourself. I designed this complete guide to give you a crash course in permaculture and guarantee your success.

Here is what you will discover in it (and what you will not find anywhere else):

1. The “Secret” installation techniques

The guide goes far beyond simply driving in stakes. It details specific situations:

• The “Labyrinth” trick: A specific folding technique to block the tiny slugs (< 5 mm) that would slip through the mesh.
• Managing the Compost: Did you know that your compost is the slugs’ “Trojan horse”? I explain how to manage your two compost heaps so as not to reintroduce eggs into your protected areas.
• Risk-free Mulching: The exact protocol for managing the netting/mulch transition without locking the wolf in the sheepfold.

2. The Plant Bible (Prevention)

In addition to the netting, learn to use nature to defend yourself:

• 179 resistant flowers: For a flower-filled garden that the slugs leave alone.
• The Repellent Plants: The ones to plant as a “shield” in front of your lettuces (borage, hyssop…).
• The “Sacrificial Border”: The list of plants that slugs prefer to your vegetables, to lure them cleverly away from your vegetable garden (a distraction strategy).

3. What you must NEVER do

I dismantle the myths that make your problems worse. You will understand why beer traps and pellets (even organic ones) create a “yo-yo effect” that draws even more slugs to your patch in the long run.

In summary: You buy a net to protect your vegetables today, but I am giving you the manual to understand and regulate your ecosystem for ever.

This netting is not just a gardening accessory. It is the conclusion of months of research to answer a single obsession: How do you stop fighting against nature?

For a long time, we believed we had to choose between “killing the slugs” (chemicals, cruel traps) and “losing everything” (letting it happen). This device proves that a third way is possible.

• A scientific way: Based on the galvanic reaction of pure copper, not on beliefs.
• A sustainable way: One that protects your harvests without poisoning your soil or destroying biodiversity.

My goal with this project is for you to rediscover the simple pleasure of growing things. So that you can plant a lettuce in the evening and find it intact the next morning. That is the real victory.

Thank you for being part of this adventure towards more sensible gardening. Happy harvests (and happy peace) to all!